The Ultimate Chastity Belt

The Ultimate Chastity Belt is a complex molding and casting process utilizing several composite materials to successfully create a belt.  Molding is the process of taking something and creating a mold of it so that multiple castings of that something can be made.  In this set of articles we are only concerned with the construction of the mold.

We will utilize two materials to create this belt mold.  First is a resin that will be extremely hard. This will be the primary mold material.  Second is a silicon that is fairly soft. This will be the primary mold material to shape the penis tube inside the cup.

It has been critical to determine the type of material that would be used for this construction. If the material were completely hard (rigid) our mold would have to be different than if the material was pliable.  In the choice of materials we have settled on a material that is somewhat flexible but does not stretch.  This allows us to pour the belt portion of the device in a flat injection mold.

Since we settled on an injection mold process this requires us to build a mold front and mold back which is then screwed together and the material to be poured is injected at various points in the mold.  The two sides have to go back together perfectly which means we have to use a lot of registration markings to signify that the mold is put back together as it was originally assembled.

Building the mold's frame.

So the first part of building this 2-piece injection mold is to cut a piece of clear plastic (1/4″ thick) big enough that the belt portion of the device fits within the boundaries leaving a good bit of working room around it.  From that we notched out a number of registration points along the edge.  This will allow the plastic (which will function as the back of the mold) to fit back into the resin mold.

After we get the plastic back cut we are going to build a 1″x2″ frame around the plastic.  This frame will act as the pool in which the resin will collect and harden (more on that later).

Creating registers.

Notice how the registration notches in the plastic align to the corner of the frame.  When poured the resin will flow to the bottom and create a notch in which the plastic back must fit to be aligned properly.  But we do not want to put the frame together yet as there is so much more to do to get everything ready for pouring the mold.

Outlining register.

We now lay the clay model of the belt on the plastic mold back. The plastic will act as the mold of the back side of the belt when the two halves are joined.  At this point we need to draw a overall registration and overflow barrier around the perimeter of the belt.  This is at least an inch away from all edges of the belt and plastic backing.

Using a burr tip to create the register.

Now from the markings that we made on the glass we take a burr tip on the end of an in-line drill and dig a trough where we marked the plastic.  Again, this trough will serve as a registration mark that aligns the overall top and bottom molds together.  The trough should be sufficiently deep (at least 1/8″).

Burr tip up close.

As you can see in the picture  the burr tip made a good clear trough in the plastic.  We have added a few dot registers. These dots again have to line up with the other side of the mold in order to indicate that the mold is aligned correctly.

Complete model with registration dots

Now with the registrations completed we lay the clay model of the belt back onto the plastic and glue it to the plastic back mold. We are glueing it down to the plastic to avoid it moving around during the remaining steps of our work. While this will make it more difficult to peel off of the plastic it is a necessary step in the process.  Movement of the piece during any part of the next stages would ruin the mold.

The finished buildup with registration and channel

We are building the front of the mold. If we have any part of the model that is not supposed to lay completely flat on the plastic bottom we have to protect it from being locked into the mold (and thereby ruining the mold) while we are pouring the front.  We do this by building up some clay bunkers around the raised pieces. Later you will see how these pieces create a space that allows us to pour the back of the mold.  For the most part of this mold the plastic base itself is the back of the mold.  Anywhere it is not flat, we have to pour the positive image later.

More space to protect.

The same process has to be used on the belt buckles. These buckles are not flush with the belt but rather have a 1/4″ rise to allow them to sit flush in the cup when locked.

Assembling the framing.

Now that we have completed the buildup areas and the clay belt model is secured to the plastic we are ready to assemble the frame around the plastic backing.  As you can see from the picture the frame is screwed together and then screwed to the workbench to make it secure and unable to move around.

Parting agents applied.

Once secured a parting agent must be applied to everything inside the wooden frame including the wooden frame itself.  Failure to apply and adequate amount or parting agent means that after you pour your resin you will have a solid block of hard plastic with a clay belt inside of it.  Not exactly what we are trying to accomplish and an extremely expensive mistake.  The parting agent assures us that the new resin will not bond to the plastic backing, clay belt model, clay build up areas, and wooden frame.

Wax only on exterior

The final step in the preparation of our mold is to melt wax and brush it on the outside of the wooden frame anywhere there is a joint. This means that wax is applied even along the base of the frame where it meets the work area.  A leak during a pour could compromise the mold and the materials used to create it.  Upon completion of the waxing, our mold is ready for the next step.  Pouring the resin.