The Ultimate Chastity Belt

Now that we have completed the build-up it is time to pour the resin that will be the front of our chastity belt mold. The resin we are using has an A (resin) part, and B (hardener) part.

Pouring the resins

The working time for this particular resin is 8 –  10 minutes.  Since the mold is large and there are three of us we decided to pour three buckets worth so that each of us can be stirring and pouring at basically the same time. This will give us all the material we will need for the pour at one time.

Pour and pound

Once we fill the frame and completely cover the clay model with resin we begin to pound our fists on the table to get any air that might have been trapped below to come to the surface.  Air bubbles around the actual clay model of the belt would be devastating at this point.  Once they rise to the surface you can blow on the bubble to pop it.

Front of mold pour completed

The mold is poured and now it needs to sit for 48 hours to cure. During the construction of the mold we put some brass tubing in various strategic locations throughout the mold.  These tubes will serve as guides for the bolts that will hold the front of the mold to the back of the mold.  You can see only 20 minutes into the cure cycle that we are able to take a sander and sand down any rough parts of the tubing to be flush with the mold.

Testing the guide holes.

After sanding down the brass tubing it is important to remove any burrs that formed on the inside of the tubing. This will allow clean passage of our bolts through the mold.

Removing the frame.

After the mold has cured we can unscrew the screws that are holding the frame to the base surface (in this case our work bench). We will break it free from the wax as well and then flip the mold over to expose the back side.

Flipped Over.

With the mold flipped over we can see the outline of the clay model of the belt in the resin.  Excess resin is removed from the mold using a bench scraper and puddy knife.  Remember, the plastic backing is still attached at this point and we will need to gently pry that away from the resin after we clean up any overruns that may be holding it to the mold.  If we adequately sprayed the plastic with release compound it should separate from the resin without much trouble.

Removing the plastic (back) of the mold.

As we move the puddy knife around the outside and apply a bit of lifting pressure on the plastic we see that the resin is separating from the plastic fairly easily.  The exception is where the belt was glued to the plastic to keep it from moving.  No release agent was applied there (otherwise the glue would not stick), so it was a bit trickier using the puddy knife and bench scraper to remove that resin overrun.

Clay cleaned and plastic back off.

With the plastic mold back off we can now begin the filling process of the three areas we had built up to create the back of the belt mold onto the plastic backing.

The doughnut hole revealed.

The build-up clay that was laid around the doughnut hole is removed.  Then the entire area is sprayed with a good coat of release agent. We are going to pour resin directly into this cavity and it is imperative that it not stick to what is there otherwise we have a useless block of plastic (again).

The buckles

The same is true for the buckles.  The clay that was used to build up that area is removed and the area for the pour is cleaned and coated with a parting agent as well.

Replacing the plastic back mold on the belt.

The plastic back is now placed back onto the  mold.  At this point there is no parting agent applied to the plastic.  We want the poured resin to stick to the plastic so that it forms the back of the belt. In all the flat areas the plastic is the back.

Filling the back doughnut hole

Two fill holes and five vent holes were drilled into the plastic.  Using a syringe we inject the new resin into the doughnut hole area. The vent holes release the air trapped under the plastic as we push the resin into the cavity.

Injecting doughnut hole second fill hole.

As we fill the second fill hole we can see the overflow coming out of the vent holes.  This assures us that the cavity is completely full of resin.

Filling the buckles

The same principal is applied to the buckle build-up areas.  One fill hole and three vent holes are drilled out and the syringe is used to fill the cavity until the material flows out of the vent holes indicating that it is full.

Doughnut hole excess removed.

The excess resin is removed from the plastic before it is allowed to cure.  The same is done to each of the buckle areas.

Our next segment goes on to cover the construction of the box mold for the cup (penis prison). Since this is not a mostly flat piece, the build-up with clay becomes even more important.  This will be covered in the third section of our series; Molding a Composite Chastity Device.