The Ultimate Chastity Belt

We are looking for another sculptor who would be willing to work with us on finalizing the development of this prototype.  Our current sculptor is very busy and as he tries his best to schedule us in between other jobs it is a busy time of year.  If you or someone you know would like to help, drop us an e-mail or a comment here.

I know, I haven’t written anything in a while and I have left my readers in a lurch. I guess I just have to say that life got in the way again and a new job made work on ChastityWear especially difficult.  I think I’ve settled into the routine and we are ready to get back to finishing what we started here.

Many of you wanted to pre-order and it is events like the last few months that was the reason we could not accept such orders.  Anyway, enough of that on to the next steps in production discussion.

Our first prototype(s) were not perfect in any sense of the word.  We even have one big security flaw at the coupling between the belt and the cup.  Now I have test worn the unit and the comfort level is there but we have to thin out the buckle so that the key is secure into the device.

The angle on the buckles is unsatisfactory to us and this could possibly lead to issues for wearers who have a belly.  The top of the buckles are at too sharp an angle and it may dig into a stocky build while sitting.  Furthermore, the angle was a little off aesthetically as well, so we are fixing that.

That being said the prototype is going back to the sculptor to make these revisions.  I believe he will be able to get the work done in a very timely manner as he is not having to have us stand over him to watch the process.  What does this mean?  More money out of pocket in development.  Yes, but this time money isn’t the issue, we just have to get it done and move ahead.

I apologize to all of you for going quiet.  The project is not dead, it just had to take a back seat.  I will finish this belt as I have said numerous times before, I’m just not going to promise dates anymore.  Too many things happen to change the date.  As soon as the new design is finished we will put up the pictures, mold it, test it and report the results (in those stages).

As one of our folks commented, January 2nd came and went with a whooshing sound. Our recent delays are trivial but need addressing.  We are tweaking the buckles and hardening the material of the cup itself. After a test wearing it seems that the cup does provide sufficient space for everything inside and the buckle portion barely sticks out (3/4″) of a pair of bikini briefs (so that part is grand as far as we are concerned. The belt itself is slightly above the bikini line. The rigidity issue, may in some cases, defeat the locking mechanism so we are going to a higher shore (read as less flexible) material for the cup and we want to be able to put a satin finish on the entire belt. One nice thing about our belt is that we have a flexible product that does not stretch at all, so movement restrictions due to rigidity of the belt should be a thing of the past.

The other part is I simply have not had time to work on the web site to get it done.  No rest for the weary I’m afraid.

But the question of the day is who will be our first guinea pigs? The production belt will be at a price of $1,795.00 and we are looking for 2-3 guinea pigs, I mean, early adopters who can make the trek to Atlanta, GA in either January or February to be the first ones fitted for the new belt.  Drop us an email (not a comment) if you are interested and we will see about scheduling you in.

On December 15, 2009 we de-molded the first prototype belt. With the new belt out of the mold we are pleased to now be able to show you pictures of the first prototype of the Ultimate Chastity Belt.

De-modling the belt buckles

As we de-mold you can see the buckles freed from the mold.  The metal pin for the locking mechanism has already been removed.

De-molding at the doughnut hole

When we removed the top of the mold we can now clearly see the doughnut hole and its connecting segment to the cup.

De-molding the cup, removing the bolts.

As we are now ready to de-mold the penis cup we begin by removing all of the bolts holding the mold together.  Some of the material leaked around the bolts and it required a power drill to remove the bolts.  No damage though, it was expected.

Slowly prying on the cup mold.

After the bolts are removed we begin to pry on the mold to slowly separate it from the cup inside.  Even though we used a mold release agent the material still sticks a bit and we have to pry around a bit to get it to release from the mold.

Pulling out the lock markers

Next we have to pry the mold apart enough to get the lock markers on either side out of the mold. These are pins in place into the cup that create the path for the key to travel when inserted into the cup to connect to the buckle.  Once these are out a bit more prying and we will free the cup from the mold.

Mold separated.

With the back side of the mold removed you can see the cup inside of the front side of the mold.  A bit more prying should release our cup from the mold. This side had the pegs for the holes in the cup so we have to pry with care here.

Last tug to free the cup

As we pry the bottom of the cup out we can see that we have a completed cup from the first run of our mold.

Prototype cup side view.

Front side view of the newly released cup.

Prototype-cup (rear view) after de-molding

Rear view of the prototype cup after de-molding.  Now with a little magic and chemistry we attach the cup to the belt.

Prototype #1 Complete

Unfortunately the belt was a bit too big for any of the developers to try on but we have done some fittings with some of the mock up material from initial pours and we believe when sized this will be comfortable and secure.  A little mock up view below:

Prototype #1

Do not worry guys and gals, we will have prettier models displaying the belt soon enough!

In conclusion we have a number of adjustments we want to make before going into production.  We do anticipate production beginning around the first week of January 2010. Look for our web site to go live at http://www.chastitywear.com/ a few days before we are ready.  This blog will remain open and used to show our continuing development efforts. As I have waited nearly a year to say this, I look forward to locking up each and every one of you in the new year!

On December 6, 2009 ChastityWear developers poured the first belt material into the mold.

Fill and Bleed Holes

The first thing to note is the fill and bleed holes.  Since this is an injection mold we will fill it using a 60mL hypodermic needle which will be inserted at each of the fill holes drilled to accommodate the tip. The bleed holes allow air to escape the mold.

Cup Mold (front)

The picture above is the front half of the cup mold.  If you remember, we poured that in the last segment of this blog. You can see the detail in the cup as each of the air holes produced in the original clay model are reproduced here by the little pegs.

Cup Mold without Tube (back)

When we poured the mold with the silicon inside the penis tube you remember we had a clay penis stuck into the mold to create a way for us to hold the silicon tube in place.

Cup Mold (rear)

With the silicon over the penis holder we now have the correct spacing to create the penis tube inside the mold.

Buckle Preparation

Now we need to create negative space for the buckle.  This is the area where the key will be inserted. To do this we start with a metal rod positioned in the buckle to not allow material to fill that area.  It will be knocked out after the mold cures.

Lock Positioning

To that metal rod we attach a keyed nylon spacer to allow us a way to activate the locks. This nylon spacer will not be removed but will be part of the final product molded into the belt itself.

Buckle Mold Ready for Pouring

With the buckles prepared you can see that the mold is just about ready to be injected.  In order to do that we must assemble the back of the mold.

Belt Mold Ready to Pour

Our clear plastic back is attached and now the belt portion of the device is ready to be injected.

Assembling the Cup Mold

We now assemble the cup mold.  See how it goes together and there are bolts that will hold the front and back together.

Belt Injection Begins

We begin to inject the belt mold.  Using material colored black you can see how the hypodermic needle is filling our mold. from the buckle toward the middle of the belt.

Belt Pour At Center

Now starting at the middle fill hole we are able to begin to fill the rest of the belt.  Within a few minutes the entire belt will be complete and all air ejected through the bleed holes.

Injecting the Cup Mold

Filling the cup is similar.  We have a fill hole and bleed hole.  You cannot see the bleed hole in this picture but it is just a few inches from the fill hole.

Cup mold is full.

When the mold is full you can see the black material coming up out of the bleed hole.  Now it is a 48 hour wait to see the results.  Considering that it is currently in the mid 50s in Atlanta, we are going to allow these casts to cure longer. We anticipate another entry detailing the demolding this Saturday, December 12, 2009.

Now that we completed the molding of the belt we have to build the mold for the cup (since this is a male belt, I like to refer to it as a penis prison).

The prison build up.

Remembering that we are building each mold side by itself, we have decided to make the mold of the front of the cup first.  The back of the cup is a bit tricky because of the penis tube and we have to visit that problem separately later. Utilizing clay we form it around the bottom edge of the front covering the areas we do not want to include in the mold. The way this device is shaped lends itself quite well to a box mold.

Registration again.

Again we need to make a registration mark around the entire device that will allow us to put the two halves back together again knowing that they are aligned.

Around the cup buckle

Dimple and trough registration as it goes around the belt buckle holder in the cup. All of the holes are sealed from one side with metalic tape to avoid having to match up front and back holes.

Framing it in.

We now build the box around the front side of the cup. This will allow us to fill this area with resin to create the front mold.

Cup front mold completed.

With the box completed we now spray the entire inside surface with a release agent so that none of what you see inside the box (including the wood itself) will stick to our resin mold.

A good stiff waxing.

As before with the belt mold waxing the cracks is extremely important to avoid leakage.

Cup mold is poured

Once complete we mix the resin and pour the front of the cup mold.  This now will need to cure.  Once cured, we can turn it over and begin to build the cup back side and penis tube.

Flipping the mold over and remove clay build up material

After allowing the mold to cure we now turn the box mold over and remove the clay that was used to build up the front side of the mold.  Now you can clearly see the back side of the clay cup model and the registration marks left in the front mold piece.

Creating the penis tube.

We have created a little clay model that will be inserted into the penis tube.  This clay model will  create the negative space in the silicon that we will fill the penis tube with so that we can fill this with the resin from the pour of the back of the mold.

Filling the penis tube.

With our clay negative space object in place, we fill the penis tube with a flexible silicon solution that will take up the remaining space in the tube.  This solution will take at least 5 hours to dry.

Back of mold negative space

We need clear access to the key holes in the cup area to insert key registers when the cast is being poured. With clay we build up the area on the back of the buckle (as we did in the front) to give us clear access in the final mold.

Completed key access area with registration.

The key access area when the mold is completed is shown here in the creation of the negative space required later.

Build-up complete with silicon insert ready

The build up for the key access areas is complete and you can clearly see the silicon insert in the penis tube. The hole will be filled in the creation of the back of the mold to give further registration.

Application of parting agent.

Again, we do not want to lock the clay model into our mold so we have to make sure that when poured, the new back of the mold will not stick to the front of the mold.Again, we do not want to lock the clay model into our mold so we have to make sure that when poured, the new back of the mold will not stick to the front of the mold.

Limiting resin requirements

We now build the box around the model limiting the amount of resin we need to pour in the back.

Pouring the mold back.

After a liberal application of wax and making sure all the holes and seams are filled we are able to pour the back of the mold.

As of November 30, 2009 this is as far as we have gotten. This page will be updated when the rest of the cup molding is completed (Dec. 7).

Now that we have completed the build-up it is time to pour the resin that will be the front of our chastity belt mold. The resin we are using has an A (resin) part, and B (hardener) part.

Pouring the resins

The working time for this particular resin is 8 –  10 minutes.  Since the mold is large and there are three of us we decided to pour three buckets worth so that each of us can be stirring and pouring at basically the same time. This will give us all the material we will need for the pour at one time.

Pour and pound

Once we fill the frame and completely cover the clay model with resin we begin to pound our fists on the table to get any air that might have been trapped below to come to the surface.  Air bubbles around the actual clay model of the belt would be devastating at this point.  Once they rise to the surface you can blow on the bubble to pop it.

Front of mold pour completed

The mold is poured and now it needs to sit for 48 hours to cure. During the construction of the mold we put some brass tubing in various strategic locations throughout the mold.  These tubes will serve as guides for the bolts that will hold the front of the mold to the back of the mold.  You can see only 20 minutes into the cure cycle that we are able to take a sander and sand down any rough parts of the tubing to be flush with the mold.

Testing the guide holes.

After sanding down the brass tubing it is important to remove any burrs that formed on the inside of the tubing. This will allow clean passage of our bolts through the mold.

Removing the frame.

After the mold has cured we can unscrew the screws that are holding the frame to the base surface (in this case our work bench). We will break it free from the wax as well and then flip the mold over to expose the back side.

Flipped Over.

With the mold flipped over we can see the outline of the clay model of the belt in the resin.  Excess resin is removed from the mold using a bench scraper and puddy knife.  Remember, the plastic backing is still attached at this point and we will need to gently pry that away from the resin after we clean up any overruns that may be holding it to the mold.  If we adequately sprayed the plastic with release compound it should separate from the resin without much trouble.

Removing the plastic (back) of the mold.

As we move the puddy knife around the outside and apply a bit of lifting pressure on the plastic we see that the resin is separating from the plastic fairly easily.  The exception is where the belt was glued to the plastic to keep it from moving.  No release agent was applied there (otherwise the glue would not stick), so it was a bit trickier using the puddy knife and bench scraper to remove that resin overrun.

Clay cleaned and plastic back off.

With the plastic mold back off we can now begin the filling process of the three areas we had built up to create the back of the belt mold onto the plastic backing.

The doughnut hole revealed.

The build-up clay that was laid around the doughnut hole is removed.  Then the entire area is sprayed with a good coat of release agent. We are going to pour resin directly into this cavity and it is imperative that it not stick to what is there otherwise we have a useless block of plastic (again).

The buckles

The same is true for the buckles.  The clay that was used to build up that area is removed and the area for the pour is cleaned and coated with a parting agent as well.

Replacing the plastic back mold on the belt.

The plastic back is now placed back onto the  mold.  At this point there is no parting agent applied to the plastic.  We want the poured resin to stick to the plastic so that it forms the back of the belt. In all the flat areas the plastic is the back.

Filling the back doughnut hole

Two fill holes and five vent holes were drilled into the plastic.  Using a syringe we inject the new resin into the doughnut hole area. The vent holes release the air trapped under the plastic as we push the resin into the cavity.

Injecting doughnut hole second fill hole.

As we fill the second fill hole we can see the overflow coming out of the vent holes.  This assures us that the cavity is completely full of resin.

Filling the buckles

The same principal is applied to the buckle build-up areas.  One fill hole and three vent holes are drilled out and the syringe is used to fill the cavity until the material flows out of the vent holes indicating that it is full.

Doughnut hole excess removed.

The excess resin is removed from the plastic before it is allowed to cure.  The same is done to each of the buckle areas.

Our next segment goes on to cover the construction of the box mold for the cup (penis prison). Since this is not a mostly flat piece, the build-up with clay becomes even more important.  This will be covered in the third section of our series; Molding a Composite Chastity Device.

The Ultimate Chastity Belt is a complex molding and casting process utilizing several composite materials to successfully create a belt.  Molding is the process of taking something and creating a mold of it so that multiple castings of that something can be made.  In this set of articles we are only concerned with the construction of the mold.

We will utilize two materials to create this belt mold.  First is a resin that will be extremely hard. This will be the primary mold material.  Second is a silicon that is fairly soft. This will be the primary mold material to shape the penis tube inside the cup.

It has been critical to determine the type of material that would be used for this construction. If the material were completely hard (rigid) our mold would have to be different than if the material was pliable.  In the choice of materials we have settled on a material that is somewhat flexible but does not stretch.  This allows us to pour the belt portion of the device in a flat injection mold.

Since we settled on an injection mold process this requires us to build a mold front and mold back which is then screwed together and the material to be poured is injected at various points in the mold.  The two sides have to go back together perfectly which means we have to use a lot of registration markings to signify that the mold is put back together as it was originally assembled.

Building the mold's frame.

So the first part of building this 2-piece injection mold is to cut a piece of clear plastic (1/4″ thick) big enough that the belt portion of the device fits within the boundaries leaving a good bit of working room around it.  From that we notched out a number of registration points along the edge.  This will allow the plastic (which will function as the back of the mold) to fit back into the resin mold.

After we get the plastic back cut we are going to build a 1″x2″ frame around the plastic.  This frame will act as the pool in which the resin will collect and harden (more on that later).

Creating registers.

Notice how the registration notches in the plastic align to the corner of the frame.  When poured the resin will flow to the bottom and create a notch in which the plastic back must fit to be aligned properly.  But we do not want to put the frame together yet as there is so much more to do to get everything ready for pouring the mold.

Outlining register.

We now lay the clay model of the belt on the plastic mold back. The plastic will act as the mold of the back side of the belt when the two halves are joined.  At this point we need to draw a overall registration and overflow barrier around the perimeter of the belt.  This is at least an inch away from all edges of the belt and plastic backing.

Using a burr tip to create the register.

Now from the markings that we made on the glass we take a burr tip on the end of an in-line drill and dig a trough where we marked the plastic.  Again, this trough will serve as a registration mark that aligns the overall top and bottom molds together.  The trough should be sufficiently deep (at least 1/8″).

Burr tip up close.

As you can see in the picture  the burr tip made a good clear trough in the plastic.  We have added a few dot registers. These dots again have to line up with the other side of the mold in order to indicate that the mold is aligned correctly.

Complete model with registration dots

Now with the registrations completed we lay the clay model of the belt back onto the plastic and glue it to the plastic back mold. We are glueing it down to the plastic to avoid it moving around during the remaining steps of our work. While this will make it more difficult to peel off of the plastic it is a necessary step in the process.  Movement of the piece during any part of the next stages would ruin the mold.

The finished buildup with registration and channel

We are building the front of the mold. If we have any part of the model that is not supposed to lay completely flat on the plastic bottom we have to protect it from being locked into the mold (and thereby ruining the mold) while we are pouring the front.  We do this by building up some clay bunkers around the raised pieces. Later you will see how these pieces create a space that allows us to pour the back of the mold.  For the most part of this mold the plastic base itself is the back of the mold.  Anywhere it is not flat, we have to pour the positive image later.

More space to protect.

The same process has to be used on the belt buckles. These buckles are not flush with the belt but rather have a 1/4″ rise to allow them to sit flush in the cup when locked.

Assembling the framing.

Now that we have completed the buildup areas and the clay belt model is secured to the plastic we are ready to assemble the frame around the plastic backing.  As you can see from the picture the frame is screwed together and then screwed to the workbench to make it secure and unable to move around.

Parting agents applied.

Once secured a parting agent must be applied to everything inside the wooden frame including the wooden frame itself.  Failure to apply and adequate amount or parting agent means that after you pour your resin you will have a solid block of hard plastic with a clay belt inside of it.  Not exactly what we are trying to accomplish and an extremely expensive mistake.  The parting agent assures us that the new resin will not bond to the plastic backing, clay belt model, clay build up areas, and wooden frame.

Wax only on exterior

The final step in the preparation of our mold is to melt wax and brush it on the outside of the wooden frame anywhere there is a joint. This means that wax is applied even along the base of the frame where it meets the work area.  A leak during a pour could compromise the mold and the materials used to create it.  Upon completion of the waxing, our mold is ready for the next step.  Pouring the resin.